Sono orgogliosa di pubblicare oggi le parole semplici e dirette, le emozioni, le impressioni di viaggio di un amico che, su richiesta, ha relazionato la sua avventura in terra patagonica.
E' un po' lungo... ma non stancatevi di leggere because it's worth it.
Thanks Ivan!
Ta '
Hello everyone, my name is Ivan and I will' to describe a journey that took me halfway around the world in the company of Thomas, a guy like me 'a little' undoing.
Well, as we begin, I do not know boh 'it myself, also because' writing is not 'one of those things that attracts me but her friend Tatiana asked me threatening me with a snap ... I can do! We
Thomas and I, we are two friends and colleagues, we both worked in the Netherlands for more 'than four years and forget it,' cause the mountain for two who love not the Netherlands and 'the best place, but our work has always allowed us to travel frequently in search of adventure. We are seekers of the climate but I'm not 'a dilegare too much on details and get started with the trip.
Yes, the employment contract and 'finished the operation, and prospects are "great escape", there' are looking for another job but of course we do not, try another adventure and one in the drawer 'Patagonia, land so dreamed. We decided for two and a half months to be seen with itinerary and book return tickets to Santiago and then fly to Punta Arenas and just, we will return to the north only by public transport. We arrived at night on 19
febbario in Punta Arenas, I thought to get off the plane and be swept away by icy winds and yet nothing, calm and warm! What the fuck of Patagonia and 'I asked myself! But soon rimangero 'everything. After a night in the hostel I think most 'dirty city' we try to organize the first trip in the towers of Paine. We have a zainone with lots of food, tent, sleeping bag, clothing for all conditions, an extra pair of underwear and socks, 3 bottles of water, heavy ice boots, crampons, ice ax, 30m rope, some webbing and 4 referrals, a nail and a rock of ice to your head and enough light goes away .... in short, 30-40kg with all the food for two weeks! But no equipment "Big wall".
The impact with the towers' was lovely with good weather and little wind, but the impact with the Rangers ... not so. They do not want free camping and have to follow the paths and crossings at all! We look at me and Thomas and say okay okay ... well done and we also have to pay both the entry and not a little that every camp. Here the negative side and 'mass tourism because of people coming and walking two hours in svacca refuge for those who want to do somethin' else you must ask permission or pay. We will pay the entry you but then we will do our head, like bears just two weeks, 8 hours of forced marches and bivouacs wild.
After two days of crossing over an area of \u200b\u200bwasteland in front of the towers we deal with the wind. We had never experienced anything like that, the night of the second day the wind has flattened our tent, breaking all three posts, I went out to try to correct and I fell like a stone, and it was hard to stand in the morning always with a following wind 150-180 km / h we had packed a few bags and a tent. Then Thomas realizes that one of his shoes and 'flown away. Tackle with some plastic bags and tape. The shoe "home made" resist 'till the filing of some materials that we have left in the bushes near the entrance of the park where Thomas had sandals that will use' then for all il tour.
Nei restanti 10 giorni circumnavigheremo il gruppo del Paine; dallo sbocco del glaciar Grey ai piedi dello Scudo ed entreremo anche in valli desolate. Il vento sara’ sempre nostro compagno, specialmente nelle creste vicino allo Scudo e in quelle orientali dove mi ricordo che siamo caduti una decina di volte. La tenda venne riparata con bastoni di legno e nastro adesivo. Avevamo in mente di fare alcune vie “normali” ma visto che anche camminando non era possible stare in piedi abbiamo rinunciato. L’autunno stava arrivando, il verde delle foglie lentamente se ne stava andando, era tempo di procedere verso nord per rincorrere l’estate. Tempo per visitare Fitz Roy e compagno Cerro Torre.
Tornati a Puerto Natales prendiamo a bus to El Chalten, and after 8 hours of travel we are in the Fitz Roy. The wind and 'always present even if less violent to the towers of Paine for the moment. After a day of food shopping to do and inform us, we start the next morning with the weighted zainone the threshold of 40 pounds. All material: boots, ice ax, rope, two slings, two carabiners 2 ice screws, a nail from the rock, backpackers, tent, food (many but not enough ...), all for the great crossing of the Hielo Patagonia Sur.
It points to the Marconi paso west, but before we do a trip of 2 days paso Quadrado watching the impressive north face of Fitz Roy. Heaven and 'clear but the wind came Crest and 'unsustainable and do a few meters up to Cerro centinania Electric took us 4 hours. Around Cerro Torre are fluffy clouds that make only a glimpse of the white head of the famous summit ice mushroom, which then disappears behind the rush of the storm.
The glacier that descends from Paso Marconi 'was well covered by heavy snowfall in January and proceed quickly enough to seat about 1800m and then from there to the north will take us through a' shelter-in-Gorra Blanca Chilean observatory. The refuge 'plates for a very large and comfortable inside which there are mattresses. We meet two guides with customers who come back from Cerro Gorra Blanca that stands out in front, and 'really a beautiful pyramid of ice.
not resist the temptation and the day we start at eight o'clock in the morning for us too Gorra Blanca. In less than four hours are at the top, fast, with only one ice ax and crampons, the slope it 's never too but the last 50 meters of the fungus on the south side you have to work around and be very careful' cause them to crash a wall vertical of 1000m, but the ice was fantastic and we decided to go untied also because 'if a fly, could do the yo-yo with unpleasant consequences.
On top there is a breathtaking and the sky and 'clear in all directions, you can see beautifully groups of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy in the south, then west to the Cordon Lautaro and Moreno and more 'to the northern group of San Valentin. The wind calmed down for a moment and I can spread a handkerchief with the names of Albert and Stephen, two dear friends of the Alpine school we have left. He always thinks of them and what they have given both in the wall is the human side.
we enjoy an afternoon stroll near the shelter and see where to navigate to the west, we will decide the direction to the Glaciar Pio IX even if it is not recommended for the time is always bad for the huge crevasses. Then return to the south-east to Paso del viento.
The next day we start to an endless white flatness, time is not 'the best and after 6 hours of walking the storm rages. We're stuck, we know to be among il rifugio e il cordon lautaro piu’ o meno ma non vediamo nulla e quindi ci accampiamo. Dopo aver scavato una trincea mettiamo la tenda e ci infiliamo dentro come due criceti nel nido. Attenderemo due giorni prima di vedere l’azzurro del cielo e ripartire, dopo altri due giorni di cammino nella bufera, arriviando sul bordo di enormi crepacci, ecco il Glaciar PioIX. Impossibile proseguire. Davanti a noi muri di nubi bianche minacciose; sono i venti umidi pacifici che vengono buttati sullo Hielo per poi raffreddarsi e scaricare piogge o neve. Con 6000mm di acqua all’anno e’ una delle zone del pianeta piu’ piovose e il Ghiacciaio Pio IX ha una dinamica molto veloce per lo meno secondo il mio collega Thomas che e’ un esperto glaciologo.
Thomas in the storm while I racconda of glacial dynamics and I think that 'better replace the tent and rest and then go back lindomani.
The rustic tent after repairs stand up to any duty, but now we are forced to come out to remove snow that otherwise it may collapse. At night they hear noises incredible below us. And 'the giant glacier that moves and we fear that it opens a crack under our ass!
no contact with the world, only two of us in a miserable tent. With me 'just the mp3 with the music of Woodstock in 1968 and Thomas who writes mathematical formulas that should be published. To myself 'I think that a pair of stunned so there. I remember
that with the first light at about seven o'clock in the morning after the usual ritual of tea and coffee 'with cookies, we share to the south east in search of nunatak Whitte. The
nunatak and 'a rocky outcrop in the middle of the glacier and expects to achieve in the evening. It was getting dark, but fortunately left the west side of the Hielo time and improves visibility 'and' excellent. The nunatak Whitte seems close but the distances on a uniform white expanse is difficult to calculate. We walked continuously for 10 hours before reaching the rocks and have the feeling of being down to earth. That
known the wind was calm and not even all that cold, you think of many things, friends, affection, asleep Even if you are a little 'tired.
The next morning the time and 'beautiful and we decided to tackle the moraine, towards the top' which is just over 4000m, but we will succeed. Arriving in the middle 'road rages the storm and being in an area heavily crevassed wait for 3-4 hours before deciding on dafarsi. Arrive 2 pm and the time available and 'a little but we are aiming at the Cerro north to Raymond, there is a beautiful wall of ice to go with two cracks to get around. Fatigue and 'a lot, does not seem real, maybe it will' poor nutrition, however, and that peak 'was one of the most' sweaty and then after the usual picture, via a hurry, 'cause ancora nuvole minacciose stanno arrivando. Torneremo stremati e infreddoliti nella tenda, il solito the’ e i biscotti e poi un sonno profondo.
Il giorno dopo non riusciremo a ripartire verso Paso del Viento, la tempesta ce lo impedisce, ancora un giorno in tenda, oramai sono otto giorni sul ghiaccio. Ma ci rallegriamo se pensiamo che Thomas Urlich ne spese 52 per la traversata integrale da nord a sud compiuta solo 3 anni fa’ senza utilizzo di aiuti!
Dal nunatak whitte in 16 ore di quasi costante cammino riusciremo a ritoccare la terra per accamparci (quasi morti) finalmente su di una delle tante morene del Glaciar Viedma. Oramai non facciamo piu’ caso al vento, gli ultimi 300m di crepacci sono stati insostenibili fisicamente con pezzi ice thrown as projectiles on our body. From
moraine to the Paso del Viento we get there safely in 5 hours walk there and take it easy even if the food is ending. We camp and two days to arrive to El Chalten without food, supported only by the bags'. The first restaurant we found 'was attacked on duty with extra portions of any bendidio.
Here and 'round and now more and more' to the north. We wanted to climb the San Valentin, but a local guide told us that it was not the season. Gia 'cross this season and the Hielo' been so, at the San Valentin would have risked a failure too expensive because we must hire transport fino all’imbocco dello Hielo Nord. Il nostro budget e’ risicato, spendiamo solo il necessario per divertirci. Certo che uno si puo’ divertire con la Playstation a casa ma questo e’ un altro capitolo.
Dopo 12 ore di bus notturno arriveremo invece a Bariloche, spleindida capitale del Rio Negro, da dove abbiamo intenzione di intraprendere una bella traversata tanto per cambiare. Qui il tempo e’ notevolmente migliore, c’e’ poco vento e una temperatura fantastica per camminare e arrampicare. Decidiamo per una pausa nella cittadina di due giorni, dove ci rifocilleremo di buon cibo e vino e faremo provviste per un 10 giorni di tour. Nella zona si erge il Volcan Tronador dietro la cordillera granitica del Catedral che e’ 20 km from the city '. Our idea 'to make a full crossing of the Cathedral and then point to the Tronador. We'll take the bus to the ski resort of Bariloche and then from there on foot in 5 hours we arrive at the Frey hut that sits beneath the granite walls of the Cathedral near a small lake turquoise. It 'an area frequented by climbers of all kinds and great training gym for those who want to tackle the giant of South
Early in the morning we wake up early in the pull-down by the pond and did and backpacks with a rope of 30 meters, 4 carabiners, rock hammer and two nails, one hand to the wall. Our equipment will allow us not 'the sixth grade, but the crossing of creste e sempre sul terzo e quarto grado ottimamente appigliati con camini e fessure divertenti e mai esposti, solo verso il blocco sommitale c’e’ da stare attenti per un passaggio di V+ delicato ma anche ben chiodato.
Finiremo verso le 4-5 del pomeriggio la traversata di tutto l’arco granitico, non so’ di preciso quanto fosse stata lunga ma ce la siamo goduta e con poca fatica anche perche’ venivamo da un buon allenamento forse.
L’indomani si parte verso il tronador e ci vorranno 4 giorni di continuo cammino in zone desolate, anche perche’ di solito chi raggiunge quel vulcano prende un bus fino all’entrata del Parco e in un weekend lo si sale, ma noi no, volevamo qualcosa di piu’ romantico!!
From the top 'of the Cathedral you see the Tronador, and' how to get started in the Resegone Orobie to get to the Accident think I could do only a few idiots.
I do not remember the names of all the mountain ranges that we crossed but I remember that the first two days we've made them without trail and the rain to finish in a valley marshes and dense bush of the progress that has made us weary. Before ending up in the valley I think we risked big. We had to go directly to a channel of about 200m of steep snow enough, it seemed easy, but in the middle ', as we boarded it and' formed a fracture and the channel of snow and 'collapsed. Fortunately we have just heard the "crack" we jumped like hares on the rocky sides of the channel and we expect the worst. Huge blocks of ice and snow have fallen into the valley with a roar and we will happily save clinging like lizards. It could end badly, and that 'was the most dangerous situation I've ever spent, it seemed a stupid channel of snow and it seemed too well established, but sometimes certain situations and should be reevaluated in each case may' also be falling off a vase of flowers in head when you least expect it, but these are only speeches by statesmen.
After the worst starts to rain and fortunately there is a cave near where the ridges are waiting now for a better time. Crossed the watershed we go down in a desolate valley that according to the mappa l’unica via e’ quella che segue il fiume, anche perche’ ai lati ci sono solo fitte e impenetrabili boscaglie. Per fare io penso 3 Km sul letto del fiume ci abbiamo messo 6 ore, a volte salti di 20-30 metri hanno reso difficoltoso il proseguire a meno di non fare un bagno completo.
Fattosta’ che altri due giorni passeranno in zone selvaggie, senza sentiero o con poche traccie prima di raggiungere un lago con una tettotia da dove e’ possibile scendere a Pampa Linda dove ci sono un campeggio e due Hotels, base di partenza per il parco Nauhel Huapi verso il Tronador. Da li in circa 3 ore di cammino rapido raggiungeremo il rifugio Otto Meiling a circa 2000m (noto scalatore e alpinista tedesco emigrato in Argentina proprio in Bailoche) to stop and taste the local delicacies. The refuge boasts a record-breaking warmth in all of South America.
The next day, well rested and rifocilalti we start at dawn to the summit of Argentina, in less than three hours we are on the cumbre argentina (3187m) and after sailing for two hours to reach that Internacional (3478m) with the greatest difficulty ' . After a short break, we returned to the hut in the afternoon and evening at Pampa Linda to enjoy the typical empanadas.
More and more 'high! Someone said ... well then you are more 'you go' to the north and more 'has chance' of climb. We opt for the 3747m on Volcan Lanin, a classic cone-shaped volcano that is not particularly difficulties'. We thought about this in two days of the state in 1100m but we instead want to want to go now we want superesaltati, we did that day. Hardly remember to have climbed 2600m of altitude in one day, however I felt from God, walk, eat everything and I was free and light. In return we find that Mapuche Indians are not much cash to see us' cause were celebrating the ancient rites of worship just as we climbed the volcano. Of fact and 'forbidden to climb the Lanin as we are the Mapuche, but eventually their leader and' proved tolerant and made us go, but told us not to cross the camp. The Mapuche do not like foreigners and especially Americans and English that they would destroy their people. I thought "how lucky I am Italian and at least this time I did not break with the usual story pizza, mafia and mandolin."
And away you go 'more in the North, more hours of bus to Chos Malal, a district in the desolate region of Neuquen, and hitch them up to Domuyo (4708m), also called the roof of Patagonia "made to tremble and growl "as they say the Mapuche. The landscape changes ntevolmente, and 'much' barren, almost lunar, with fumaroles and thermal geysers spewing rivers of hot water. There is no soul apart from two local gauchos with their cattle, no tourists, just fine!
We do leave the entrance of the path that leads to the top, but as usual we do a variation on the west ridge, off the track. Without path and 'a grind, soil and' crumbly and dusty, you gain a yard and you lose two slides. Finally we arrive at a summit plateau at about 4000m where we will rest and pitch a tent. Follow the ridge west to the summit is impractical. There are vertical sections of soft rock such as cookies, too much risk, the better off and resume the path 'most southerly we say I and Thomas. In fact, we camp near a beautiful blue lagoon (reported to camp 3200m) and the next day at 5-hour climb to the summit, easy climb with only a section of vitreous ice that is almost vertical and 50m ' better protected. Along the way the landscape was surreal colors and contain a multitude of fossils (ammonites), we can only try to fund such an experience. But it is not 'over here' cause the hot springs are a touch dirty sound for our bodies, free hot water and hydro included, and 'heaven here, in the winter (summer for us) say that the ski touring are excellent, always with Jacuzzi !.... we will definitely go back. From
Tronador descending towards Chos Malal to take the bus to Mendoza and Santiago from there and then San Pedro de Atacama to the border with Bolivia, about two days by bus, really heavy. You could go from Mendoza to Aconcagua, but it 's too touristy per noi due e non ci va’ di pagare per salire, meglio il Cerro Mercedario, anche lui sfiora i 7000m, ma la logistica non e’ facile. Visto che il deserto di Atacama e’ un luogo che vogliamo visitare e pullula di vulcani over 6000m assolutamente liberi, decideremo di trascorrere le ultime due settimane vagabondando tra deserto e vulcani con meta finale il Lullaillaco a 6737m.
Arrivati a San Pedro il problema e’ il noleggio di un fuoristrada, c’e solo una compagnia e cara, alla fine risultera’ l’unica opzione, ma vabbe’ non capita ogni giorno di noleggiare un auto in Atacama! Resteremo a San Pedro due giorni per fare provviste di acqua (circa 70 litri), cibo per due settimane e gasolio per circa 1000Km. San Pedro e’ molto turistica, ci sono compagnie di ogni genere che organizzano trekking e scalate alle vette principali. Per chi ha tempo e’ interessante noleggiare una bici e farsi il Salar di Atacama, a patto di prendere una tanica di acqua!
Il paese si trova a 2300m a nord del famoso salar di Atacama, una distesa di sale piatta e uniforme che si estende per 100Km, ad ovest si ergono una miriade di vulcani dal confine con la Bolivia a quello con l’Argentina. Ce ne sono di tutti i gusti, non presentano difficolta’ tecniche ma sono tutti sopra i 5000m e molti sopra i 6000m. Il deserto di Atacama e’ famoso anche per la scarsa piovosita’, circa 2-3mm di acqua all’anno e non ci crederete ma ce li siamo beccati tutti....sottoforma of tiny ice crystals, but nothing to worry about seeing the desert covered with a veil and white 'was a thrill.
chose to go up 3 volcanoes, the Lascar, miscanthus and Llullaillaco. The Lascar and 'the most' active across the Cordillera, miscanthus and 'the most' beautiful and the Llullaillaco and 'the most' hard.
With the off-road from San Pedro in 8 hours of driving we arrive at the base of the Lascar at 4300m, the smell of sulfur and 'sour so we go down to 200m to a dry lagoon and camp. Thomas is' a headache, maybe we went too fast with the car, 4000m above the body must always have time to adjust.
The next day, we start the morning quickly to the summit at 5592m, the trail and 'easy, I seem to get into Maresana from Bergamo, but oxygen and' little and we have to acclimate well. Breathe, but every step we take we feel heavy. We passed the 5000m on a rocky plateau where the smell of sulfur and 'strong enough, and I have to walk 200-300m on the nose with a wet cloth to cover the volcanic acrid smells. We reach the ridge to the north with easy trail leads to the Cumbria at 5592m. Beautiful scenery, too bad the clouds and smoke coming from the giant crater, but we are satisfied. The wind at that altitude and 'quite strong and chilly, but nothing compared with the Patagonia. We go down to the tent quickly and with we aim at making the terrain Miscanti pero 'a ride to the west in areas with sparse beats. For me, the desert has its charms as well as a granite wall, feel the solitude, but you do not feel alone, you see colors you've never seen, and everything 'in silence but you can hear his voice.
There are no road signs and the roads are not there, you follow the tracks and hopefully that will lead somewhere. In fact, without knowing, we have come accidentally at a checkpoint but the Chilean guards did not seem to surprise and made us pass without problems. We will arrive in the afternoon at the lagoon Miscanti, wonderful place and breeding area for flamingos (Los Flamencos National Reserve), in front of the lagoon (4200m) stands the Volcan Miniques with its 5910m, more and more 'up for us.
suitable textbook and departure the next morning for the summit. There are 1700m in altitude to the summit, not extreme but perhaps feel more at those odds. We are still not well acclimated but the enthusiasm and 'too little and want to wait. We arrive at the summit after 8 hours of exhausting journey, there is a marked trail, it is only to identify the line more 'logical and climb a slope constant of debris up to 5500m and from there to the south shoulder to the summit. It seems endless and fatigue cha with little oxygen, I realize I have to return the wrong way and starts to get dark, it was not difficult, but the orientation will be ' was the fatigue and the underestimation that we arrived at 2km from the tent. But at this point it does not matter if it makes the effort 'dark, we're fine, we have food and water, the rest will be'.
tent was well rested and refreshed with kilos of biscuits off again for the final project, the Lullaillaco. And 'the volcano more' high, not 'hard but it' s hard and we spremera 'our energies. To find it, and 'a company, and not as' tourist area. Response to the recommendations summary for 2 days and will spend beautiful places, also visited the ancient Inca ruins. On the route leading to Lullaillaco matches everything except human beings. Then check the distance you see a triangle and you wonder, will 'him? We only had a photo and a map bought at the airport of Santiago ridiculous, but we think we are in the right place as we spot a sign of Minera Escondida, which according to the map and 'some 100 km from the volcano. We are approaching more and more ', and the gauge is the right one with the glacier rieva of penitentes sighted from a distance and channel / gully characteristic that falls to the north.
There are no roads and the only solution 'to follow a track that seems to point straight toward the mountain. But it will be 'the wrong' cause we bring 'straight into a canyon impassable! No, we will camp for the night and will resume the next day to check the right track. You have to know the desert and be careful not bogged down with the terrain otherwise there is no solution, phones and do not take the city 'more' nearby 'to 90Km.
Finally, a rusty sign indicates the entrance of the Park Llullaillaco and a track that will prove 'the right to the base of the giant. Proceed slowly with the machine, the way in the last 5 km and 'Motl bumpy but finally arrived at the foot, accompanied by agile Vicugna. We are at about 4500m
with the car, there's a sunny but much wind, we were told to acclimatize well at least 2-3 days before getting on top but we as usual in three days we went up and down, also because ' I had to take the plane, while Thomas would stay for two weeks longer 'in Santiago. The
Llullaillaco and 'mountain was the most' high-climbing man before the advent of alpinism, climbing by the Incas for religious reasons. Mummies of children were found near the summit, where he still remained of the ruins. As they did 2000 years ago '? What motivated them? Where they came from? It remains a fascinating mystery.
decide for two fields: one at 5200m, 5800m and then in a race to the top!
I must say that our physical condition was good, up to 6000m proceed well, then quite slow up to 6500m and then very slowly to the summit. I had never been above 6000m, if you feel well and 'a good feeling and I think even better if you are acclimatized. The rise and 'was hard, with many pauses, and the top and' was an unforgettable experience, as I remember now step by step those rocks and those infinite spaces in front of me and the cold, hard and pungent. Thomas, as usual, and 'rose from another side, the Argentine to see the Inca ruins just a few hundred yards from where I was. From the summit of Llullaillaco
The descent and 'was a pain for both of us, I thought that going down to share we would feel better, but maybe we went too fast and perhaps not well acclimatized, we were wrong, dizziness, nausea , sore head. Nothing really serious but 'for a few hours we heard from two old hospice. A bit 'of the' hot, two aspirins and some cookies it has cost placed on the night and 'passed between the serene joy of adventure and happiness' to feel good.
time again, time to return home, there is a great desire to come back and tell but there 'always the guilt of having left a charming place.
Silence, no stress, no traffic, no tourists, you amalgams with the elements of nature whether they are made of ice or rock. But it's not 'goodbye, I'm sure we can not live without another adventure in the drawer, out of the everyday', so soon.
Ivan
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